Acid- Part 1- Wine Quality.

So recently I sat down and tried to write a little bit about what I’ve learned about acid.  So I started writing, and I kept writing and writing, and after more writing, I decided, that no one wants to read a thesis.  So I went ahead and split it into sections, so to start, we’ll initiate the un-initiated.  What exactly is acid?

Acid just sounds scary, doesn’t it?  Tartaric acid just sounds like something you would pour down the drain to unclog it.  Well, I hate to break it to you, but it’s in your wine.

Woah Woah Woah!  Hold it!  Don’t throw your wine collection into the trash.  Ok, that one you already threw in there you can leave in there.  Nobody likes Blackstone anyway.  The thing is grapes naturally have acids in them, namely, Malic acid and Tartaric acid.  Tartaric acid is a natural acid that integrates as seamlessly with your body’s chemistry as does a granny smith apple.  As you may already know, acid in general is a huge part of a wine’s flavor.  It’s the tingling sensation that the wine has on your tongue when you drink it.  It’s an important part of the balance and texture of a wine.  There are many parts of wine that provide subtle sensations of sweetness, so the duty of acid is to differentiate the wine from something like syrup that is just pure sweetness.

When I arrived in Australia, I already knew this.  What I also knew is that acid makes it difficult for microbes to survive.   What I didn’t know was just how effective it was at said goal.

Enter Casella wines.  Unfortunately, I can’t claim that Casella is a particularly clean winery.  The winery moves through thousands of tons of grapes every day and there’s not always time to do a thorough cleaning between every lot.  There is a lot of grime and junk that ends up in the tanks and well, let’s be honest, this isn’t exactly, err… sterile.

I can tell you this was something of a shock to me, because well, everywhere I’ve been before, they’ve been pretty adamant about sanitation.  Sanitation is your first defense against microbial instability, and protecting against all sorts of spoilage flavors in your wine.  However, after tasting through the lots with the wine-makers, I can tell you there was never any sign of microbial spoilage, which I thought was weird, because I definitely saw hoses that if I touched, I wouldn’t eat with my hands later.

So why is Casella wine so stable when it goes through the muck like this?  Well, it’s that stuff you were about to pour down the drain- acid.  The wine-makers make it a point to keep the acids very low, (pH of 3.5 and lower for the hard-core nerds in the audience) they add very large doses of Tartaric acid when the fruit comes in, so much so they have a tank full of the stuff automatically dosing our Drain-O into the transport lines and apparently, that coupled with normal SO2 levels, makes this stuff super-wine.  In wine-making school they teach you that acid is a microbial deterrent, a kind of microbiological crime-fighter and they even talk about it in some consumer-oriented wine books, but not until I had seen it here did I really appreciate how strong it is.  This is simply amazing: the wine here protects itself, unlike every American winery I’ve been to, where the wine-makers protect the wine.

Ok, ok, so you guys are probably wondering the same thing I did: doesn’t all that acid make the wine tart?  Of course it can, but it’s more a question of balancing it with other elements of the wine, which we’ll get to another day.

So there you have it.  Acidity.  If you made it this far, congrats!  I probably shouldn’t have chosen one of the most important topics in the wine world for an article subject, but here you are, you made it.  So kudos to you!  If I didn’t bore you enough just now and you want to hear more self-important diatribes, stay tuned!

 

Knowing Who’s Boss

So it’s fruit finding time!  I am normally something of a fruit vulture, hanging around vineyards, hoping that something gets dropped or doesn’t get sold, but this year I’m going to try to find something ahead of time.  As much fun as the “set up for harvest in 24 hours” game is, I’m going to go about things in hopefully a more professional manner this year.  So as I start hunting for Zinfandel and Pinot Noir lots for fall, I find myself thinking about last year’s harvest.

Stop me if you’ve ever heard this one before: to make great wine you need great fruit.  Not exactly a revolutionary concept, is it?  It’s kinda up there with “the most important part of a steak is the meat”.  (I’m waiting to hear that in a steakhouse someday)  Well, as a winemaking/enology student, you kinda lose track of this sometimes, because as a winemaker, you have so many tools at your disposal to alter how the wine tastes, many of which I’ve discussed here, that you begin to forget the importance of fruit in the first place.

So let’s flash back to September 2011, shall we?  My buddy Alex calls me up to tell me he’s getting married right before I bring in a lot of under-ripe, light-bodied Pinot.  (for the non-nerds: light-bodied means thin and soft, like comparing skim milk to full-cream)  I decide to make the wine for his wedding, and I ask him what type of wines he likes.  The answer: bold, smooth wines, in other words, the opposite of what I have. (for the non-nerds- he likes that full cream I mentioned earlier)

Thinking myself an other-worldly wine-wizard, I began to under-take turning apples into oranges.  I take my under-ripe, light-bodied Pinot fruit and nuke it with every extractive method I can think of.  I oak it heavily during fermentation with toasted and untoasted oak.  I add sulfur mid-fermentation to create the silky compound glycerol.  I drain juice from the wine to get more skin contact.  I punch down as much as I can.  I add extracting enzymes.  What did all of this do?  My under-ripe light Pinot came out tasting like…

(We’re doing that suspense thing again)

…an under-ripe light Pinot.

Well…  Dammit.

So if there’s a lesson to learn here: it’s pretty obvious.  Learn who’s boss.  The fruit is going to taste the way it is going to taste.  All you winemakers just have to deal with it.  That’s not to say I didn’t find ways to beef it up, blending with Zinfandel did wonders for it, as did a little post-fermentation oak.  However, I think it’s important for me to share with anyone who reads my little blurbs about how wine-makers make wines taste different ways understand one thing:

We winemakers can alter in subtle ways how a wine tastes, and there are even occasions when the wine-maker can make a big affect on the flavor of the wine, but at the end of the day, it’s the fruit who’s boss.